Monday, April 16, 2012

It's a month of kitchen stuff and look at what Cherry has for us in her Retro Kitchen

Hello everyone! My name is Cherry and I'm so happy to be back sharing my little kitchen quilt with you all!
Thanks Madame Samm for having me over.

Back in the 70's, both my Mom and Grandma had these large fork-n-spoon sets hanging in their kitchens, and then, the other day, I was at a friend's house and spotted a beautiful modern version of those in her kitchen! That's when I decided I needed to have my own quilted retro fork-n-spoon set!!!
So, this is what I came up with...

a fun, easy, and fast little project for a retro kitchen made with a few charm squares!

This is what you'll need

1 fat quarter for the background
12 charm squares for the fork-n-spoon
1/8 yd binding
1/2 yd backing
Matching thread for appliques
Paper-backed fusible

I had this beautiful Chrysalis Charm Pack in my stash that had the perfect colors to match my kitchen. To make my fork-n-spoon fabric, I chose 12 of the darker squares for good contrast against my background fabric 

Start by cutting (2) 2" x 5" strips from each charm square

Arrange (2) matching rows and sew them together

Press the seams open.

Next, using a fine tip Sharpie marker,
trace the fork-n-spoon templates onto the paper side of the fusible

 and cut them out about a 1/4" away from the drawn line.
Place the fusible side down onto the wrong side of the fork-n-spoon fabric
and fuse down with a hot/dry iron. 
Next, cut right on the drawn line.

Cut a 13.5" x 21.5" from the background fabric.
Center the fork-n-spoon and fuse onto the background fabric with a hot/steam iron.

Stitch around the appliques with a blanket stitch.
I like to reduce the length and width of my stitch so it barely shows :-)

Square the block to 12.5" x 20.5" 

And it's done! Wasn't that fast? 
For the quilting, I wanted my fork-n-spoon to pop out, so I used two layers of batting: Warm & Natural Cotton on the bottom and Quilter's Dream Wool on top, then added heavy quilting all around the fork-n-spoon. Don't you you think they really stand out?

   Before binding, I wanted a little hanging sleeve...
Well, I've never been too crazy about the whole sleeve idea, until I found this wonderful method for small quilts at The Alzheimer's Art Quilt Initiative for Fast Finish Triangles

So... what do you think? Are you making one?
Come by my blog to get the templates and for a chance at a little giveaway ;-)

Bon appétit,

R U Kidding me....line up...there will be many 
who will want this...love it Cherry..
*editors note

Saturday, April 14, 2012

It's a month of Kitchen stuff....and look at what Patti has to offer us ....Rolling in the Dough with an Adjustable Chef's Hat ( and 3 very very special guests today)

Thank you Madame Samm and gentle readers for having me back during "Kitchen" month. This is Patricia from Yumm Yumz by patticakes.

How would you like a way to get your kids more exercise, learn a trade, travel the world, and become a world class athlete? This post might just be for you. You and your kid could soon be Rolling in the Dough! They can begin training TODAY to become, as the U.S. Pizza Team calls themselves - Pizza Acrobats!

The U.S.P.T. performs at fairs, festivals, and even the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade. The highlight of their organization is to travel each year to Italy to compete against 20 other countries in the World Pizza Championship.

To make the team, you need to know tricks known as "power moves." Breakdancing, acrobatics, gymnastics, and theatrics are combined with pizza spinning. World Champions perform one-handed tosses, handstands, and behind-the-back tricks to bring home The Gold.

To help get your Pizza Prodigy started on his quest, I have written a recipe/tutorial on making an Adjustable Chef's hat. Let's get started so you can turn "Junior" loose in your flour bin and on his way to Pizza Fame and Fortune!

Ingredients for a Child's Adjustable Chef's Hat:
***1/2 yard of main hat fabric
***(Do NOT prewash - you will need the full 18 inches for your circle)
Contrasting (optional) fabric for hat band cut into 8" x 25 1/2" strip
8" x 25 1/2" strip fusible interfacing (I prefer Pellon Shir Tailor for it's stiffness)
2 strips - 3 1/2 inches of Velcro
8 inches of 1/2 inch bias binding (store bought or make your own)

The hardest part of this "recipe" will be to find a large circle template for your hat. I searched the nether regions of my kitchen and found an aluminum mixing bowl 18 inches in diameter. Press and starch all fabric pieces well. Fuse interfacing to wrong side of hat band.

Cut your circle and fold into quarters. Make a slight marking in the seam allowance at each quadrant which will be used to match similar markings on your hat band later.

Pick one (any one, but just one) quadrant and cut a 3 1/2" slit toward the center of your circle.

Next, try to open your slit out flat without pulling or stretching your fabric. You will be attaching your bias binding to this slit so a certain amount of easing and manipulating at the peak of the slit is necessary. Sew close to the edge of your bias binding being careful to catch the back edge of your binding on the opposite side of the slit as well. Trim excess binding to match your circle edges.

Now that you have completed the hardest part of your hat, set it aside for a minute so we can work on the band.
Fold your band wrong sides together and press. If you choose to personalize your hat band with embroidery, applique, fabric flowers, or covered buttons (unadulterated plug for one of the Madame's sponsors in her sidebar), you may do so now.
Remember, the fold will be the bottom of your finished band and the raw edge will be the top so don't put your embellishment on upside down. How do I know this? Suffice it to say, been there . . . done that!

The next part is a little tricky. Lay your hat band right side up. Attach one strip of velcro on the UPPER RIGHT side of your band. The velcro should be 3/4" from the short edge and 1 3/4" ABOVE the fold. Now attach the opposite piece of velcro to the LOWER LEFT side of your band 3/4" from the short edge and 1 3/4" BELOW the fold.

Velcro tape on UPPER RIGHT side of band
Velcro tape on LOWER LEFT side of band

If you want to double check that you did it right before proceeding, fold your band wrong sides together and bring the ends together making sure your velcro pieces will match with each other when the band is attached to your hat. Fold your hat band lengthwise in half and mark in the seam allowance at the halfway point. Mark again halfway between the center and both short edges.

Re-fold your hat band this time right sides together and sew each short edge of your band with a 1/2" seam allowance. Turn band right sides out and press well.

Now back to your hat - stitch two rows of gathering stitches 1/4" from edge of bias-covered slit all around circle to opposite side of slit.

Right sides and raw edges together, match your marked quadrants on both your circle and hat band, adjust gathering evenly and pin hat to hat band. The finished edges of your slit and the finished edges of your hat band should match.

Stitch hat to hat band with a 1/2" seam allowance. Serge or overlock seam for a finished edge.
Turn right side out and fluff. Ta Dah - Done!

To get your own Piece of Da Pie, leave a comment below of your favorite pizza topping. One lucky reader will win the red "Kiss The Cook" Chef's Hat plus a $5.00 gift card for a Mini Murph Pizza Kit from Papa Murphy's to get your own Little Chef started on his career of Pizza Acrobat. Winner will be selected by Random.Org on Sunday evening, April 15th. Please make sure I have your email address to notify the winner!

Thanks again for having me. I hope to see you soon at the next World Pizza Championship!

Thursday, April 12, 2012

It's a month of kitchen tutorials and Vicki is celebrating birthdays with a special placemat ( and yes our first but not last special guest)

Thank you Madame Samm for inviting me here to share my first tutorial with your great community. I'm Vicki Welsh and I'm a blogger and fabric maker. I blog at Field Trips in Fiber and sell my hand dyed fabrics in my Etsy shop. I have a gazillion food allergies so I'm not much of a cook but I like to serve my boring food on great placemats. Today I'm sharing one that I designed for celebrating family birthdays. If you want to print a pdf version of this tutorial you can download it here and you can check out all of my other free tutorials here.

Wouldn’t it be fun to have an easy way to honor your family on their special day? All you have to do is make one of these placemats and then bring it out for each family member to use all day (or even all week) for their birthday.
You could even make a personalize set, one for each family member. Each cake could be decorated to reflect the personality of the celebrant.
These are the approximate materials for 1 placemat.
Feature fabric – for the cake you need about 1 fat quarter in the frosting color of your choice. Solid, textured and pearlized fabrics would be great.
Cake plate – about 18” x 4”
Letters – about 5” x 14”
Backing – 1 fat quarter
Batting – about 1 fat quarter. Flannel will give a nice weight to the placemat without making it puffy. This is a great opportunity to recycle. You could also use denim, canvas or other materials for batting. Just make sure it’s been pre-washed and shrunk.
Thread– You will need thread for quilting (the frosting pattern) and thread to sew down the letters.
Fusible web – Mistyfuse and Wonder Under are my preferred products
Other decorations – ric rac, hot fix crystals

Step 1 – Create the pattern
This pattern makes a placemat that is approximately 16” x 12” and we have to start by drawing a pattern. I found the grid lines of my cutting mat to be very helpful.
Get a piece of tracing paper (or other paper that’s about 18” wide by 14” tall. If you don’t have paper that big just tape separate sheets together to get the size you need.
Start by drawing a rectangle that is 16” wide and 12” tall.
Find the 8” mark along the bottom and top of the rectangle and draw a line straight up the middle to the top of the rectangle.
Along the side of the rectangle draw a line across (horizontal) at the 1 ½” mark and another at the 9” mark.
We are going to draw the pattern first on the right side of the pattern. Mark the following dots:
- 3” up from the bottom and 1” in from the right.
- 1 ½” from the top and 1” in from the right.

Connect the dots:
  • Create the top of the cake by drawing gently curved lines from the center to the top dot. You want an oval shape.
  • Create the bottom edge of the cake plate by drawing a gentle curve from the center line at the bottom of the rectangle to the 3” mark on the right edge of the rectangle.
  • Create the bottom edge of the cake by drawing a gentle curve from the center line at the 1 ½” mark to the 3” mark that is 1” in from the right edge. This line will be mostly parallel to the bottom of the cake plate.
  • Draw the right side of the cake by connecting the 2 points of the top and bottom edges of the cake.
  • Finally draw that little curve that defines the back edge of the plate. It is a curved diagonal line from the edge of the rectangle to the side of the cake.

Fold the paper along the center vertical line and trace the lines to complete the pattern on the left side. Mark ¼” around all edges for seam allowance and cut out the pattern.
Step 2 – Cut out the fabrics

Using the whole pattern cut out a backing, batting and cake.

Cut the cake plate piece off the main pattern. There’s no need to add a seam allowance.
Adhere fusible web to the back of your cake plate fabric and cut out one cake plate piece.

Fuse the cake plate to the front of the cake.
Now it’s time for your first decorating decision.
You need to decide what you want to use for your decorative frosting. I used 2 layers of ric rack, a wide one topped with a narrow one.
You could use decorative stitches on your sewing machine, fabric paint, hand embroidery stitches or other trims.
Using your pattern for placement, sew the top cake decoration in place on the cake front only. We sew this one here so that the raw edges of the trim are caught in a seam.

Layer your 3 parts:
Batting, then backing (right side up) then the cake front (right side down).
Stitch all around the placemat with a ¼” seam allowance.
Leave one side open about 4” so you can turn the placemat right side out.
After stitching clip the curved edges of the cake plate and clip the inside corner where the cake plate meets the cake. This will make sure that your edges are smooth when you turn the placemat.

Turn the placemat right side out. Carefully smooth out all of the edges and press the placemat.
Press under the seam allowance of the open edge and slip stitch it closed.

Quilt your placemat. I chose to make my placemat using only straight stitches on my sewing machine but you can be as creative as you want. On the top of the cake I did straight line stitching parallel to the edges going around until my stitching met in the center. It looks like a pointy oval.
For the bottom of the cake I did vertical parallel stitches using the edge of my sewing machine foot as a guide.
You can go crazy here. Swirls in metallic thread would look awesome!

Sew the frosting decoration at the bottom of the cake. If using a trim be sure to turn under the raw edges.
Where the cake plate “goes behind” the cake the plate is a raw edge. I sewed a straight line of stitching along that raw edge as I sewed a couple of rows of stitches on the plate.
Step 4 – Decorating the cake
Now it’s time to have fun! You can do anything to decorate your cake. Here’s just one idea.

Apply fusible web to the back of some decorative fabric and cut out Happy Birthday letters. For the letters you will want to find a font that is chunky and make the letter about 2” tall. I used Microsoft Word to print the font Arista at 220 point. My letters are at the end of this tutorial. You can print any letters you want in any font. You could also paint, stencil or stamp letters.

Tip: When I print letters to use for appliqué templates I make sure to print the letters in light gray instead of black to save on ink.
I cut my letters from the fused fabric and arranged them by eye…no measuring. Fuse the letters in place and the stitch them down. I used a straight stitch but you could do a sating stitch or buttonhole stitch.

But my cake wasn’t complete yet. It needed sprinkles! My sprinkles are hot fix crystals. I am told that these will hold up in the wash but I admit that I haven’t tried it yet. You could also fuse on flowers, candles, stars and add sprinkles with decorative machine or hand stitches.

Now it’s time to serve the cake! I think there are lots of possibilities for this.
  • Kids could decorate their own cakes using fabric paints as a birthday event
  • Make a cake for baby’s first birthday and decorate it with the baby’s hand prints.
  • Make holiday cakes for other celebrations.
I hope you enjoy the tutorial.

It's a month of kitchen stuff...and of course Pauline would make us some Tea Towel Aprons ( 2 more special guests today again)

Welcome everyone...to another Sew We Quilt tutorial...
and thank you Mdm Samm for asking me to share a tutorial 
for something you would find in the kitchen ...
...what would be more useful in a kitchen than a tea towel and an apron.

Hi, I'm Pauline and I blog over at Quiltnqueen,
My tutorial today is an apron made with tea toweling and a 1/2 yard of coordinating fabric.

Finished apron

Tea towelling by the yard has become more readily available lately.
The toweling I used for this apron is Moda's Toweling Pastel Plaid
and the coordinating fabric is 
Moda's Hideway by Lauren and Jessi Jung. 
 It's from my stash from a few years ago...and went perfect with the toweling.
The toweling is available at Crazyquiltgirl.

To start you will need:
Materials for tea towel apron
  • 3/4 yard of toweling measuring 16" to 18" wide
  • 1/2 yard of coordinating fabric
    • cut 1 - 6.5" x wof (width of fabric) for ruffle and pocket
    • cut 2 - 4" x wof for ties and neck loop
    • cut 1 - 3.5" x 24" or 29" for neck strap (see To make the neck loop instructions below)
  • 6.5" of ric rac
  • buttons are optional
To make the ruffle:
  • take your 6.5" x  wof strip of fabric
    • cut a 6.5" square off one end and set aside.  We will use it later to make the pocket.
  • using the long piece, remove salvage then fold in half length wise with right sides together and stitch 1/4" seam at both ends
    • turn right side out, keeping raw edges even and press 
    • make a ruffle, using your favorite method, to fit the width of the toweling .
    • stitch the ruffle to the bottom of the toweling right sides together.  Gently press ruffle down and top stitch on the toweling close to the seam line.
    To make pocket:
    • with the 6.5" square, turn down the edge with the salvage 1.25" right sides together.  Stitch a 3/8" seam on both sides securing seam just past the lower edge of folded area, clip corners, 

    • turn right sides out and press.

    • stitch ric rac on pocket front catching the hem on the back in your stitching.
    Pocket Ric Rac

    • position pocket on toweling by measuring down from the top of the apron 17" - 17.5" and measuring from the side seam over approximately 1.25" - 1.5".  Pin pocket in place and top stitch to apron.
    To make the ties:
    • take the two 4" x wof strips of fabric.  You will be making 2 ties by folding right sides together and stitching the long edge to approximately 2" from the end, pivot and stitch on the diagonal, trim and cut corners leaving the one end open.  Turn (I use a chop stick to turn my ties) and press.  Top stitch all the edges of the ties close to the edge  and set aside until you complete the top of the apron.
    Tie pinned

    To make the top  of the apron:
    • if you have a serger, serge the top of the apron, if you do not have a serger, use a zig zag stitch or turn under 1/4" and turn under again to finish the edge.
    • fold down 1.25" with wrong sides together  to make a facing.  Press and top stitch lower edge of facing in place.

    • measure over 3.5" on both sides, mark with a pin and make a pleat that ends at the side stitching on the toweling, pin pleats in place.  
    • the top of the apron should now measure approximately 11". 

    • measure down 9.5" from the top of the apron and insert the ties in the pleat.



    • starting at the top of the apron, stitch the pleat down catching the ties in the pleat
    • stitch to the bottom on the ties, across the bottom of the tie, up the side close to the edge of the towel and across the top of the tie to secure the tie.  Repeat for the second tie. 


    To make the neck strap:
    • take the piece that measures 3.5" x  24" to 29". 
    • pressed a 3/8" seam to the wrong side on all the edges of the strip of fabric, 
    • fold in half wrong sides together and top stitched around all the edges.
    • attach the straps to the back of the apron top as shown.  For this apron I used the 24" measurement.
    Finished apron
    • or by top stitching them to the front of the apron and adding some buttons as shown here. For the neck band attached to the front of the apron I used the 29" length.
    Tea Towel Apron Embellished

    This apron is made using
    Moda's Granny Garden toweling and
    Moda's Amelia by Me and My Sister Designs 
    both fabrics are available at Crazyquiltgirl Fabric Shop

    I hope the instructions are clearer than mud...
    ...if you have any questions please email me
    or leave your question in your comment.

    Thanks for reading to the end...
    ...and because you made it to the end of my somewhat lengthy tutorial
    I have a give away......

    Leave a comment on this posting and you could win
    1.5 yards of toweling and 1/2 yard of coordinating fabric....
    You can make your own apron and a matching tea towel.

    Come visit me at Quiltnqueen and enter to win a second giveaway
    1.5 yards of toweling and 1/2 yard of coordinating fabric....

    Winners will be picked Monday April 16

    happy stitching

    Congrats JULIE
    you are the winner..you have been notified
    please send details...an apron for you 
    is on its way....